So it’s going this way back into the cold that’s basically all there is to it and so far it seems to be working I would notice any problem so here’s the whole tango dude’s vertical so you can see so there’s the whole tank 40 gallon read so I learned my lesson this time from the last two solar project at my new house that run everything extra even the wire so instead of running one singer sets of wire I double up and then I did two sets of wire just just in case and it turned out that I had to use both of them so I ran two set of 12 gauge wire so that I end up paralleling them together to give me more so it doesn’t the voltage doesn’t drop that much so basically what’s going in is those panels are SunPower they are 320 Watts 19 that’s the model number I believe and those is just like super efficient panels like 19 percent efficient and they have extremely high voltage I believe they’re 92 cells where 96 can’t remember but they the vo C is 65 volt and under low it’s like 55 volts so I got two in series two in parallel so basically when it’s coming in it’s 120 volt DC and then at about maximum probably bound there are six point four amps open circuit so I’m getting about two parallels to get them get about 9 amps eight point eight to nine amps so as you can see here right now it’s at one o’clock and led to focus and we’re under low we’re getting 105 volt at eight point eight amps making about 900 watts so that’s pretty pretty good could have been better if if there was an MPPT controller on here obviously this is not running on MPPT the other thing is.
I’m running on the stock element it was designed to run on 220 so running on 220 4500 watts rated but I’m only putting in 120 volts or under low in this case only 100 volts so I’m not getting the max the maximum power coming out of the panel’s and there’s a lot of place that you can read up on why is that because of the resistant in the in the element that’s causing it to causing the panel not to you know to be running at its maximum potential if you were to have an MPPT charge controller if I would hook this panel to the charge controller I’m probably probably going to get you know at least 1100 to 1200 Watts right now instead of the 900 watts now I have proven that if I were to hook one panels into the charge controller in charge of battery I was getting actually about 280 watts but if I hooked it up directly to an element I can only get about 200 watts but currently nobody really make an MPPT charge controllers for water heating to go directly into an element so but there is out there but it’s too expensive some are $300 some are a grand.
So it’s just too too expensive and not worth it so basically the solar is coming in and then it goes into this 2 2 bar the top one is positive the bottom one’s negative so it goes in the two-wire get tied together because I like I told you I run the two sets of wire and parallels 12 gauge so it goes in they go through a fuse I put it through a DC fuse on the positive side and the negative size down here the negative side get route through the meter this is the power meter this is what’s measuring the the Amdahl and the voltage so that go through there and the positive side going back to the positive side just basically put it on this these DC disconnects which I could turn it off so I now I turn that off you’ll see everything go to zero so it goes the voltage go back to 120 volt zero Iams so turn it back on back to 105 volt 928 watts okay now I will open up the bottom and we’ll talk a little bit about the elements in how the everything else go together oh and on the AC sides really simple now on the AC side I do have 220 coming into my my my workshop for my CNC machine stuff like that here but I didn’t want to mess with it and having to hook you know route another 220 line over here so I decided that see I’m only going to use the grid for redundancy or just.
When it’s not enough a solar so I still I left this to run I left the top element to be running where I wire the top element to be running on 110 only so this is the line that’s going in right here it’s going in and it run the top elements and then that get plug into the wall so see this line going down and that just going into regular sockets so what it does is that if you run the stock element the two to the 240 elements 4500 watts on 110 volt or 120 this case you’ll get about a thousand watts that’s how much it pulls on my watts meter so that’s perfectly fine for regular outlets so give me a second let me open it up and I’ll show you okay so here’s the top element this is where the AC is coming in and basically that’s the great power so what I did was it had another line that get attached to the this terminal so basically it grunge down just to parallel the wire to the bottom elements so I disconnected that this that would be that wire right there that red and the black wire on the side so I cover that up so still leaving the grids and have this run on 110 so that’s that so this is standalone so I’m not connecting my solar to the grid where the DC is coming in.
So I have the DC coming in now before the other day I still had a route through the stop thermostat but if you rely on lying everybody keep saying that well yeah you can’t run they stop thermostat on DC especially high voltage DC you can probably get away with like 20 volt 4 volt to 48 volt DC and maybe 10 amps or so then the stop thermostat I think and still work like my other house on this particular setup because it’s 120 volt DC it if you ever handle 120 volt DC you probably know it arc a RC the arc is art quite a bit so I’m like probably an inch a good inch to two inch of arc when you remove the wire let’s say you have to wire twist it together and if it’s 120 volt or so DC you pull them apart though you’ll see that much of art so what happened if you run the stop thermostat and now I have tested this when the thermostat try to shut it off and that metal plates in there try to separate all it does is that the plate is separated but then the arc is still connecting them together so under my Watts meter up there my power meter.
I can still see it’s pulling power and if that happened for a long period of time I think what happened is that the thermostats going to burnt itself up or probably going to catch on fire so now I have tested that so I prove that you can’t use the stop thermostat on 120 volt DC so now you know someplace like Wynans Missouri wind and solar they sell you the DC thermostat they are rated for DC and AC I think their way to anywhere from 12 volt to 250 volt AC and DC so to put into perspective this thermostat is not any bigger than the pup to stop thermostat and I’m pretty sure the inside is all the same to the way how they works so as you see this thickness doesn’t have enough separation to to to disengage the the plate or the power so I tested this – i call it them they don’t really give me an answer but i tested so i tested myself and guys they do not work on high voltage DC even though on their website that they say it’s handled 250 volt DC that’s bolt there’s no way it can handle 250 volt DC I only put 120 volt DC through it and I’ll have a video that I’ll clip in I’ll show you what it does you can see you can hear it and then you can see the arc that’s going on a bunch of blue really bright blue spark on the inside of it and all it does is that it sparked it spark and arc but it won’t shut off.