So it’s  going this way back into the cold that’s  basically all there is to it and so far  it seems to be working I would notice  any problem so here’s the whole tango  dude’s vertical so you can see so  there’s the whole tank 40 gallon read so  I learned my lesson this time from the  last two solar project at my new house  that run everything extra even the wire  so instead of running one singer sets of  wire I double up and then I did two sets  of wire just just in case and it turned  out that I had to use both of them  so I ran two set of 12 gauge wire so  that I end up paralleling them together  to give me more so it doesn’t the  voltage doesn’t drop that much so  basically what’s going in is those  panels are SunPower  they are 320 Watts 19 that’s the model  number I believe and those is just like  super efficient panels like 19 percent  efficient and they have extremely high  voltage I believe they’re 92 cells where  96 can’t remember but they the vo C is  65 volt and under low it’s like 55 volts  so I got two in series two in parallel  so basically when it’s coming in it’s  120 volt DC and then at about maximum  probably bound there are six point four  amps open circuit so I’m getting about  two parallels to get them get about 9  amps eight point eight to nine amps so  as you can see here right now it’s at  one o’clock and led to focus and we’re  under low we’re getting 105 volt at  eight point eight amps making about 900  watts so that’s pretty pretty good could  have been better if if there was an MPPT  controller on here obviously this is not  running on MPPT the other thing is.

I’m  running on the stock element it was  designed to run on 220 so running on 220  4500 watts  rated but I’m only putting in 120 volts  or under low in this case only 100 volts  so I’m not getting the max the maximum  power coming out of the panel’s and  there’s a lot of place that you can read  up on why is that because of the  resistant in the in the element that’s  causing it to causing the panel not to  you know to be running at its maximum  potential if you were to have an MPPT  charge controller if I would hook this  panel to the charge controller I’m  probably probably going to get you know  at least 1100 to 1200 Watts right now  instead of the 900 watts now I have  proven that if I were to hook one panels  into the charge controller in charge of  battery I was getting actually about 280  watts but if I hooked it up directly to  an element I can only get about 200  watts but currently nobody really make  an MPPT charge controllers for water heating to go directly into an element  so but there is out there but it’s too  expensive  some are $300 some are a grand.

So it’s  just too too expensive and not worth it  so basically the solar is coming in and  then it goes into this 2 2 bar the top  one is positive the bottom one’s  negative so it goes in the two-wire get  tied together because I like I told you  I run the two sets of wire and parallels  12 gauge so it goes in they go through a  fuse I put it through a DC fuse on the  positive side and the negative size down  here the negative side get route through  the meter this is the power meter this  is what’s measuring the the Amdahl and  the voltage so that go through there and  the positive side going back to the  positive side just basically put it on  this these DC disconnects which I could  turn it off so I now I turn that off  you’ll see everything go to zero so it  goes the voltage go back to 120 volt  zero Iams  so turn it back on back to 105 volt 928  watts  okay now I will open up the bottom and  we’ll talk a little bit about the  elements in how the everything else go  together oh and on the AC sides really  simple now on the AC side I do have 220  coming into my my my workshop for my CNC  machine stuff like that here but I  didn’t want to mess with it and having  to hook you know route another 220 line  over here so I decided that see I’m only  going to use the grid for redundancy or  just.

When it’s not enough a solar so I  still I left this to run I left the top  element to be running where I wire the  top element to be running on 110 only so  this is the line that’s going in right  here it’s going in and it run the top  elements and then that get plug into the  wall so see this line going down and  that just going into regular sockets so  what it does is that if you run the  stock element the two to the 240  elements 4500 watts on 110 volt or 120  this case you’ll get about a thousand  watts  that’s how much it pulls on my watts  meter so that’s perfectly fine for  regular outlets so give me a second let  me open it up and I’ll show you  okay so here’s the top element this is  where the AC is coming in and basically  that’s the great power so what I did was  it had another line that get attached to  the this terminal so basically it grunge  down just to parallel the wire to the  bottom elements so I disconnected that  this that would be that wire right there  that red and the black wire on the side  so I cover that up so still leaving the  grids and have this run on 110 so that’s  that so this is standalone so I’m not  connecting my solar to the grid where  the DC is coming in.

So I have the DC  coming in now before the other day I  still had a route through the stop  thermostat but if you rely on lying  everybody keep saying that well yeah you  can’t run they stop thermostat on DC  especially high voltage DC you can  probably get away with like 20 volt 4  volt to 48 volt DC and maybe 10 amps or  so then the stop thermostat I think and  still work like my other house on this  particular setup because it’s 120 volt  DC it if you ever handle 120 volt DC you  probably know it arc a RC the arc is art  quite a bit so I’m like probably an inch  a good inch to two inch of arc when you  remove the wire let’s say you have to  wire twist it together and if it’s 120  volt or so DC you pull them apart though  you’ll see that much of art so what  happened if you run the stop thermostat  and now I have tested this when the  thermostat try to shut it off and that  metal plates in there try to separate  all it does is that the plate is  separated but then the arc is still  connecting them together so under my  Watts meter up there my power meter.

I  can still see it’s pulling power and if  that happened for a long period of time  I think what happened is that the  thermostats going to burnt itself up or  probably going to catch on fire so now I  have tested that so I prove that you  can’t use the stop thermostat on 120  volt DC so now you know someplace like  Wynans Missouri wind and solar they sell  you the DC thermostat they are rated for  DC and AC I think their way to anywhere  from 12 volt to 250 volt AC and DC so to  put into perspective this thermostat is  not any bigger than the pup to stop  thermostat and I’m pretty sure the  inside is all the same to the way how  they works so as you see this thickness  doesn’t have enough separation to to to  disengage the the plate or the power so  I tested this – i call it them they  don’t really give me an answer but i  tested so i tested myself and guys they  do not work on high voltage DC even  though on their website that they say  it’s handled 250 volt DC that’s bolt  there’s no way it can handle 250 volt DC  I only put 120 volt DC through it and  I’ll have a video that I’ll clip in I’ll  show you what it does you can see you  can hear it and then you can see the arc  that’s going on a bunch of blue really  bright blue spark on the inside of it  and all it does is that it sparked it  spark and arc but it won’t shut off.